Dior’s New Look, the Tour de France, an Iconic Shirt, and Incredible Support

Just a reminder -- To Catch a Spy is now available for preorder! 

John Robie’s World

I’ve always associated a white shirt with blue stripes as French, and while writing To Catch a Spy, I discovered the marinière (French for ‘marine’) shirt.

It might be the most iconic shirt in the world. It was originally used by French sailors, making it easier to spot a man overboard. Also, the pattern was highly regulated -- for example, the official navy shirt had 20 white and 20 blue stripes on the torso, each 10mm wide, with 20mm of space between them. That’s pretty specific.

French sailor with the famous shirt and what looks like a shower cap on his head

The shirt quickly crossed over from uniform to fashion. During WW1, Coco Chanel often vacationed near the sea, and she admired the sailors in their marinière shirts so much that she featured them in a new line of fashion. Other designers of that era soon followed.

Celebrities followed, too. Pablo Picasso, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Bridget Bardot, Marlon Brando, Sting, and Kate Moss have worn them.

The BBC even called the shirt ‘The Ultimate Symbol of French Cool’, saying it’s right up there with the beret. 

If I could find a decent, inexpensive one, I’d buy it. That’s how much it’s grown on me.

And if I can’t, I’ll still work it into the book. 

Coco Chanel

Francie Stevens’ World

After WW2 and German occupation, France was a nation in serious transition. After years of suffering, they had to rebuild nearly everything, including its national psyche, and one way to do that was through fashion.

France’s Minister of Fashion (yep, that was a real position) brought together Christian Dior, the famous designer, and Marcel Boussac, a textile tycoon, to revitalize fashion. Brilliant move when you think about it -- it juiced up several industries simultaneously, including design, fabric, and retail. 

Dior created ‘The New Look’ which tossed away the plain, shapeless designs of an austere era for a new period of opulence. Remember, female fashion took a masculine turn back then, as many women replaced men in factories.

Some said it wasn’t just a new look; it was a new outlook. This style featured layers of textiles (for the fabric industry) and much embroidery (for the design industry). 

It was a huge hit! Dior himself was quoted as saying…

“No one person can change fashion-It was because women longed to look like women again that they adopted the New Look." 

Dior's Signature 'New Look' Design

This chapter in history has become so famous that Apple TV recently made a series about it. It makes one realize that fashion is about so much more than utility, and I found a great way to include it in my book. 

Riviera Life

While researching Riviera life in the 1950s, I came across the Promenade des Anglais, literally the Walkway of the English.

Go back a couple of centuries, and you’ll find that English aristocracy used to winter on the French Riviera. There were so many needy folks in the area that the English suggested building a walkway as a means of employment. The local government loved the idea and built the Promenade des Anglais (La Prom), which runs about 4 ⅓ miles. 

This famous footpath has been a key part of the Riviera's fabric for centuries, and this year, the Tour de France concluded on the Promenade. 

La Prom 

This struck a chord with me as the Long Branch and Asbury Park boardwalks hold great memories. Taking a stroll along the beach, stopping to people-watch, and grabbing some cheesy Jersey Shore food (pun intended) helped me realize the truly beautiful moments in life are often free. 

Except for the cost of the hot dog and the salt water taffy…

Boardwalk in Asbury

Anyway, I’ve got to find a place for La Prom in my book.

My World

When you’re confident enough to tell people you’re writing a book, you get met with some skepticism — sideways looks, all-knowing head nods…you get the point. 

But that has been the exception for me. Ever since I started, family and friends have been incredible. And now that it’s available to pre-order, I’ve been touched by the support. So many people are happy for me; I can’t express what that means. 

Recently, I was with friends at a great cigar shop, Peaceful Henry’s, and it came up in conversation. Al, Bill, and Eric were delighted; all three ordered copies on the spot.

Eric was quick to note the ‘Free Returns’ policy, but still…I’m so grateful to everyone. 

Thank you all!

My friends Al, Bill, and Eric